Muharram

Sabir suggested to come to Jaipur for the celebration of Muharram. Take 120 or more crazed marching bands wailing on at least 10 times the usual number of drums (get rid of all the other instruments since they would be drowned out anyway) then have them plow around the city, drumming up a storm as they pass various reviewing stands, along with enormous elaborate floats that look like towering temples made from toothpicks and tinsel and you basically get the feel of this ancient Islamic holiday. The drumming started at about sundown and continued relentlessly, until almost sunrise, when they converged into one massive deafening drum war in a huge field at the edge of town. There's a little morning break of maybe a couple of hours (either that or I must have slept really soundly for a bit) then the drumming starts up again full force and goes on the whole next day! It's one of the biggest events in Jaipur, and Sabir Khan, the aspiring Indian music star son of Sultan Khan (Peter's sarangi teacher), took a 5 hour train trip from Jodhpur to join his drumming friends who have apparently won awards for their elaborate drumming in the past. From what I've been able to piece together from stories the locals tell us (and a glance at Wikipedia for good measure) Muharram is the anniversary of the battle of Karbala, in which the grandson of the prophet Muhammad was killed, about 1300 years ago. It's the beginning of the Islamic year and traditionally, all war stops for several weeks. Traditions vary throughout the Islamic world, but here in Jaipur, it's all about the drumming.