Rules of the Road

As far as I can gather from all the rikshaw rides we've taken, the only clear rule here is don't hit anything or anybody or cows. Beyond that, these appear to be some general guidelines for achieving that. I listed only things that I saw numerous times, to be reasonably sure that these were part of the driving etiquette here and not just random moments of insanity (which will fill another long list):

Drive on the left, when necessary. (The British are responsible for the first half of that statement, the Indians for the second half.)
At intersections, whoever gets there first and beeps has the right of way.
No passing when there is oncoming traffic, unless you beep (and hold the horn).
No driving in the wrong direction on a divided road, unless it's less than a mile or so to a turnaround.
Vehicles in a traffic circle have the right of way, unless you get there first and beep.
Going the wrong way around traffic circles is forbidden unless your turn is only one street over.
No U turns in heavy traffic, unless there's a tiny gap and you beep.
When turning right across really heavy traffic, it's OK to make a U turn and go until you can make another U turn the other way and go back up the shoulder so you don't miss your turn.
No more than 6 passengers in a rikshaw, unless it's a pickup style rikshaw, then all the kids must sit in the back.
The number of kids in the back of a rikshaw is limited to the number that can fit without falling out.
No more than 4 adults on a motorcycle.
The driver of a motorcycle must wear a helmet if he is carrying passengers or if there are police around.
Small children and babies on motorcycles must be carried on a lap of a woman sitting side saddle.
Small children 3 or older can sit on the gas tank of a motorcycle. No more than 2 children on the gas tank.
Headlights are recommended after dark, but not required if the driver thinks he can see or doesn't need to because he knows the way.
No stopping in the middle of the road unless you aren't sure where you're going, then stop and wait and in about 3 seconds someone will stop and help.

Special note to my former vanpool mates: Imagine Jerome driving a rikshaw, then imagine that all drivers drive like Jerome at his most daring, ALL the time. Then add lots of extras on foot, bicycles and motorcycles, a bunch of dogs and a few cows. Put traffic circles at most of the intersections and remove stoplights from the rest, or just ignore them. Now triple the amount of traffic on the road. You get the idea.